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LOCATION: Allow leaves and blossoms to fall off naturally. Do not cut or pull them off, which exposes the plant to infection. Stems are taking in the last bit of energy from their leaves preparing for winter rest.

Cuttings - To store cuttings that you want to plant in the Spring, remove any flowers or leaves on the cutting to allow the end to dry (callus) so no latex is flowing out. It is best to store them upright in a container of perlite or on crumpled paper. Keep it in a dark and dry place (garage, storage closet) off the cold concrete floor and away from extreme temperature drops and moisture. 

To plant cuttings, prepare a potting mix (50/50 cactus mix/perlite) in a pot or in well-dug ground.

In Pots - As the sun shifts (and if your plants are moveable), they may enjoy being moved into morning sun and afternoon shade. Fall is also good time to “plunge” potted plants in the ground (or even in larger pots) to help them retain their delicate root structure while providing a protected environment during dormancy and colder winter temperatures. Place the pot in a hole with the top of the potted soil level with the soil of the ground.

In Ground - No extra care is needed.

WATER: This is the time to begin cutting back on your watering.

Cuttings - Check on your cuttings periodically. By callusing or drying the stem of a cutting you are storing the vital latex (white, sticky life force) inside the stem. Mist your cuttings once or twice a month to keep them firm. If the cuttings become soft or winkled, they are dehydrated - mist them more often to hydrate. 

In Pots & Ground - Gradually cut back on watering to ensure that soil stays moist not wet. When cool weather sets in and the bottom leaves turn yellow and start to drop off, your plant is going into dormancy.  Water only when the soil is dry (check with a moisture meter or if soil falls off a finger inserted into the soil 1 to 2 inches deep.)

WEATHER: October to November begins to cool, from highs of 70s-90s and lows 40s-60s.  Water evaporation slows down as temperatures cool and exposure to sun diminishes. Drying winds in the desert can pick up, so keep measuring soil moisture.

Cuttings - If stored in your garage or under sheltered elements, they should be fine.  Check on them periodically.

In Pots & In Ground - Place your potted plants under a protected covered patio and out of the wind and off the cold concrete for Winter.

FERTILIZER + AMENDMENT: 

The last fertilizer for your plants in a pot or in the ground (i.e., rapid-release Excalibur Boost) is in early to mid-November. You can continue to fertilize your soil during this time (i.e., seaweed, worm tea, SuperThrive, fish emulsion or Epsom salts). If using tap water for worm tea application, let the water sit for 24 hours to let the chlorine dissipate, which can reduce the efficiency of the worm tea concentrate.  Or let the rainwater in a top dressing of VermisTerra Worm Castings into your soil. Fertilizing will begin again in the Spring (February-March).

PESTS + TREATMENTS:

Rust Fungus - Common on Plumeria rubra Nebel’s Rainbow, Plumeria obtusa Dwarf Singapore, and Plumeria pudica Bridal Bouquet. Caused by microscopic spores that travel and are carried by splashing rain or wind and thrive in humid conditions. Rust fungus does not kill Plumeria but can rapidly de-foliate an entire tree. To control rust, set up a care regimen:

•  Keep the growing area clean and free of fallen leaves.

•  Carefully cut off and place infected leaves into a trash bag as the disease can spread.  Reminder: clean/sterilize cutting shears with 70% alcohol.  Do not compost!

•  Improve air circulation by thinning leaves and giving each tree plenty of space to grow.

•  Mild outbreaks can be controlled with fungicides (i.e., Captain Jack’s Copper Fungicide).

•  Treat affected plumeria (and the ground surrounding the plant during the dormant season) with a broad-spectrum fungicide (i.e., BioAdvance 3 in 1).