Welcome

LOCATION: 

Cuttings - Spring is the ideal time to take cuttings or trim plants. For all cuttings (unwrapped, wrapped and bag rooted), Spring is the best time to plant. Make sure that your cuttings are firm and not dehydrated, squishy or wrinkled.  If they are, mist them daily for a few days and that should rehydrate them. Temperatures below 70ºF is the best time to plant the cuttings you have stored over the winter. Not sure which end of your cutting goes in the soil?  Leaf scars go up, making a smiley face.  For cutting, planting and trimming instructions, go to Plumeria Cuttings (go to the downloads section of this page)

Pots - This is also the ideal time to place cuttings in pots. For plumerias that have been in pots over the winter, spring is the best time to “Up-Pot” into a larger container. Up-Pot plumeria every 2-3 years or when “root-bound”. This will keep the plant healthy, continuing to flower.  Late February to late May is the best time to “Up-Pot.”  

In Ground - When transplanting potted plumeria into the ground, late February to late May is the best time. For plants larger than 3’ feet tall, dig a hole 24” wide by 18” deep.

WEATHER:  

Plumeria have been dormant for the winter, meaning that NO LATEX is flowing in the cutting or plant.  Plumeria begin to emerge from dormancy when low temperatures are consistently >50ºF and daytime is >70º F. Ground and soil begin to warm up, sun exposure begins to lengthen and the chill in the air departs signaling plumerias to wake up and begin leaf production.  Here in the Coachella Valley that can be as early as mid-February.  Spring instructions are good until daytime temperatures are >90º F.

Cuttings – Place your newly potted cuttings in a place that gets indirect light.  Once your cuttings begin to grow leaves, you can gradually give them morning sun (no more than 4 hrs.).  As your plant grows, you can increase the duration of morning sun. These plants are still new, so be gentle with them.  

Pots – Place pots in full sun (at least 6 hours of sun per day) on top of broken rocks or flagstones to retain heat, allow drainage and in an area with good air flow.

In the ground – Spring is also a good time to trim and shape your trees.  Trimming your trees also encourages new growth. Please see resources list for additional information.

FIRST FEEDING OF THE YEAR: (February 1 to March15)

Dry – Mix dry elements and spread around the base of your plant:

·  Florida Colors Excalibur VI (11-11-14). Give these amounts in February, June and September: 1 tablespoon per inch of the trunk diameter; if you have dense foliage, you may increase to 2 tablespoons per inch of trunk. (Use Excalibur Boost for seedlings and newly rooted or grafted plants.)

·  Sul-Po-Mag 1-2 tablespoons per gallon of soil/potting mix.  For larger trees and shrubs, 1-2 pounds per inch of trunk diameter, applied by working into the topsoil.

·  Worm Castings (2 pounds per 10 sq ft of area)

Wet – Mix wet elements and water thoroughly. Ideally, let tap water stand 24 hours so that chlorine dissipates (chlorine kills beneficial microbes). Apply over the dry mix so the soil is damp, not wet. 

·  Seaweed extract (2 tablespoons per gallon)

·  SuperThrive (1/4 teaspoon per gallon)

·  Fish emulsion

·  Epsom Salts (Mg SO4) (1 tablespoon per gallon)

·  Earthworm Casting Tea (2 tablespoons/ounces per gallon)

FERTILIZER/AMENDMENTS: The basic needs or primary nutrients of a plant are Nitrogen, Phosphorus and K (potassium/potash) in addition to air, soil, and water for immediate plant growth. 

Fertilizer - Nitrogen promotes growth and leaves; Phosphorus promotes blooms; K (potassium, potash) promotes roots. Too much Nitrogen means excess growth and leaves without blooms. 

When considering a fertilizer for your plumerias, each chemical element (N-P-K) is identified in percent amounts on the fertilizer bag, e.g., 11-11-14 (percent of total weight).  CVPS recommends fertilizers “Excalibur VI” (11-11-14) or Peters “Super Blossom Booster” (10-50-10) to counteract nutrient loss in potted plants.

Amendments - Amendments improves the physical structure of the soil, water retention, aeration, and chemical balance, benefiting plants by creating a healthier growing environment and allowing roots to take up nutrients quickly and efficiently.  Some amendments add nutrients as a bonus.

To achieve suitable plant nutrition, the proper balance of nutrients is necessary in the

soil. 

Macronutrients: nitrogen (N), potassium (K), magnesium (Mg), calcium (Ca), phosphorus (P), and sulfur (S) are used in relatively large amounts by the plants and are found in the soil. Carbon (C), Hydrogen (H) and Oxygen (O) come from air and water.

Micronutrients (or trace elements): iron (Fe), zinc (Zn), molybdenum (Mo), boron (B), copper (Cu), manganese (Mn), and chlorine (Cl). 

All 16 of these elements are essential for plant growth.  Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by the roots.

When considering amendments for your plumerias, here are some that CVPS recommends:

·  Seaweed extract provides a broad range of nutrients and supports overall health

·  SuperThrive (for soil or foliar feeding, adds iron) and VermisTerra Vitality - both prevent shock

·  VermisTerra Earthworm Castings (cured for 8-10 years) and Earthworm Casting Tea (a solution made from earth worm castings) condition and neutralize soils, break down salts, suppress disease and aerate soil. These can be used for fruits & vegetables. Keep them in a cool, dark space.

·  "Plumeria Martini" - Super-Thrive 1 tsp / 5 gallons + Vermisterra 15 ounces / 5 gallon - shaken and stirred.

·  Fish emulsion

·  Sul-Po-Mag (S, K, Mg) is time released and helps prevent sunburned leaves 

·  Epsom salts (MgSO4) help form chlorophyl and develop roots. Use 1-2 tsp/gallon monthly or scatter on the soil. Develops roots and cambium. 

·  Banana peel water (K, P, Ca, Mg) – Soak peels in water for 1-3 days. Apply directly or blend as a slurry.

Other Synthetic Fertilizers:

·  Florida Colors Excalibur VI (11-11-14) This formulation contains 4 types of N and is released over 6-9 months.

·  Peters "Super Blossom Booster" 10-50-10 (high phosphate) - lots of micro-nutrients (Fe, MN, Zn) to counteract leaching in potted plants

·  Schultz Expert Gardener "Bloom Plus" 10-60-10

·  GreenLight "Super Bloom" 12-55-6

·  Carl Pool's "BR-61" 9-58-8

·  Miracle Gro "Bloom Booster" 10-52-10 (not Regular Miracle Gro - holds too much water!)

Excess of one nutrient can cause a deficiency of another, so a proper balance is very important. Another factor in nutrient uptake is the pH (acid/base balance) of the soil. If pH is too high (basic) or too low (acidic), nutrients become unavailable to the plant. The perfect pH for plumeria is 6.5 to 7.5 ("neutral"). pH meters are available on-line but may not be reliable. The only way of determining the soil or plant element content is by soil and tissue testing (which is not readily available).  

Don’t Panic, enjoy this new relationship! In time, you will learn to read your plumeria leaves and know what your plant needs. You will have become a plumeria whisperer! 

For more information see: 

Visible Signs of plumeria nutrient deficiencies (see Plumeria Handbook, go to page 7A)

What nutrients do for your plumeria (see Plumeria Handbook, go to page 8)ß

WATER: When watering with amendments or fertilizer, allow tap water to stand 24 hours so that Chlorine (Cl) evaporates (chlorine kills beneficial microbes). Water with amendments one to two times a month.

Cuttings - Cuttings planted in prepared, moistened soil will not need to be 

 watered.  Gently mist the stalk of your cutting every day until three new leaves are 

 formed. Remember your cutting has no roots and you are giving the plant time to focus 

 its energy on growing roots. This can take 4-8 weeks - be patient!

Leaves means that roots have begun to grow. Gently water around the stalk, not directly on the stalk. The roots will grow out from the stalk seeking water.  Properly amended soil will allow water to move quickly through the soil.  Allow your soil to dry almost completely before watering again. A water meter stuck into the soil should read DRY. Or, stick your finger in the soil – if soil particles stick to your finger, the soil is still wet and should be allowed to dry out more.

Pots and In Ground - As your plumeria begins to show new growth, water your plant with amended water until the water begins to come out of the bottom of the pot. Properly amended soil will allow water to move quickly.  Allow your soil to dry almost completely before watering again. 

PESTS + TREATMENTS

Common Pests:

·  Spider Mites – Tiny pests causing yellow stippling, bronzing and fine webbing on undersides of leaves, leading to leaf drop or distorted growth.

·  Whiteflies, Aphids, Mealybugs, Scale – Sap sucking insects that weaken the plant and excrete honeydew, leading to sooty mold.

·  Tetrio Sphinx Moth Caterpillars – Plumeria is their primary food source. They eat leaves voraciously, but healthy plants usually recover.

·  Slugs & Snails – Chew holes in leaves and flower.

Common Diseases and Fungal Issues:

·  Rust Fungus (Coleosporium plumeriae) – Yellow spots on top of leaves, powdery orange lesions (spores) on the underside, causing leaf curl and drop.

·  Black Tip Fungus – Blackening and dieback of branch tips, especially after cool, wet conditions.

·  Powdery Mildew – White, powdery spots on leaves and buds, common in humid, crowded conditions.

·  Stem/Root Rot – Soft, mushy stems or wilting, yellowing plants, often from overwatering or poor drainage; usually fatal.

·  Frangipani Mosaic Virus (FMV) – Causes color breaks (streaks/spots) in flowers and is incurable, spread by tools.

Control and Prevention:

·  For Pests – Blast with water. Spray with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or horticultural oils. VermisTerra Earthworm Casting tea can be used as a foliar spray, to control many insect species.

·  For Fungal Diseases – Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, provide sun, apply fungicides for rust and black tip, use sterilized tools, and ensure well-draining soil.

·  For Viruses – Sterilize tools between cuts and isolate new plants to prevent FMV spread.

For more information visit:

https://www.floridacolorsplumeria.com/plumeria-diseases-pathogens/

https://gardenvive.com/plumeria-diseases-pictures-and-treatment/

LOCATION: As plumeria go into dormancy, the remaining leaves will continue to fall off naturally. Remember not to cut or pull them off, which exposes the plant to infection. A few varieties such as Plumeria obtusa ‘Dwarf Singapore Pink’ and Plumeria pudica ‘Bridal Bouquet’ retain their leaves year-round in tropical or warm climates.  These evergreen types are characterized by dark, glossy, rounded leaves (obtusa) or fiddle-shaped leaves (pudica) and provide a more consistent tropical appearance.

CUTTINGS: To store cuttings to plant in the Spring, cut off any flowers, inflo stalks or leaves on the cutting to allow the end to dry (callous) so no latex (the white sticky liquid) is flowing out.  It is best to store them upright in a container of perlite or on crumpled paper. Keep in a dark and dry place (garage, storage closet) off the cold concrete floor and away from extreme temperature drops and moisture. 

Unwrapped – For cuttings that are not wrapped, place the bottom half of the cutting loosely in crumpled newspaper, this will help contain any latex leaking from the cut and protect the plant.

Wrapped – For cuttings dipped in sulfur/rooting powder mix and the end wrapped in plastic with tape or rubber band, the ends will callous and protect the plant.

Bag-Rooted – Fill a sandwich baggie with moist (not wet!) 50/50 perlite/cactus mix. Place the cutting into the mix. Wrap the bag around the stem and seal with tape (electrical, sports). Leave it undisturbed, in a warm dry location, to allow roots to grow into the medium. (see more on bag rooting).

In Pots – Keep the plant in the same pot until spring.  Place potted plants indoors or a warmer outside area like a covered patio or near the house under an overhanging eave. This will protect them from rainfall or gutters or drenching your plant. Elevate off the cold concrete or asphalt by placing the pots on shelves, blankets or flattened cardboard.

In Ground – Stake any young trees, securing the trunk and limbs to prevent snapping off during strong winter winds.  Make sure trunks are clear of rock, debris or fallen leaves that can trap cold air or water on the surface of the trunk. This protects the trunk from cold damage or hibernating pests/fungus until Spring.

WATER: “Plumeria like their heads wet and their feet dry.” Avoid nighttime watering in cold weather.

Cuttings – Storing cuttings is like tucking them in for a long winter nap.  Since cuttings (except for those you are bag rooting) have no roots, water can only be taken into the cutting by lightly misting the stalk.

Unwrapped and Wrapped – Cuttings will not need any regular water during dormancy.  Check cuttings periodically to see if they are dehydrating (getting wrinkled or soft).  If they are dehydrating lightly mist the stem (stay away from any wrapping) every other day, until the stalk is firm again. Keep an eye on them periodically. Repeat as necessary.

Bag-rooted – Check the bag periodically for sufficient moisture (condensation the inside of the bag). If it is too dry, roots will not develop. If needed, inject some water into the bag with a syringe (medical/turkey, etc.). Be careful not to over-water!  If you see roots forming in the bag – you’re successful!

In Pots or in the Ground – Most plumeria will be sleeping during Winter dormancy and will not be producing or sustain any leaf growth with exception of evergreen Plumeria varieties. However, plumeria in pots usually have an established root system.  Check on your plumeria periodically to see if they are dehydrating (soft or wrinkled). If dehydrating, lightly mist the stalk every other day, until it is firm again. Keep an eye on them periodically. Repeat as necessary. Additionally, with pots, you want to give their roots enough water to sustain life, but not growth. Test the soil with your finger or a water meter and only water when the soil is dry. That could mean watering once a week, every other week or only once a month. There is little to no evaporation of water during the winter, and you want to keep your plumeria from rotting or getting too cold.    

FERTILIZER/AMENDMENTS: Absolutely NO FERTILIZER during dormancy.  

Fertilizer – Fertilizer feeds your plumeria and in turn they grow.  In dormancy, we want to them sleep.

Amendments – You can continue to amend your soil during dormancy with products like worm tea, once a month by integrating into your winter watering schedule. If using tap water for worm tea, let the water sit for 24 hours to let the chlorine dissipate, which reduces the efficacy of worm tea. 

WEATHER: “No leaves, No water.” 

Although extreme cold temperatures are not common in the desert, take care to protect your plant from cold and wind. Blacktip on plumeria can form under 32°, often caused by cold damage from frost or damp conditions which lead to rot, or from fungal and insect issues. Frost Cloth or low-watt holiday lights or a bed sheet (no plastic) can keep cold at bay.

Cutting – Your cuttings have been placed in a garage or closet off the cold concrete and away from winter weather that will drop below freezing.

In Pots and In Ground– 

·  For rain: If you have a plant in a place where it rains, place one side of the pot on a 2”x4”, tilting so water will not pool at the bottom and will run out of the drain holes.
  

·  For cold: If your pots are outside and the weather is predicted to drop below 35°, make sure they are not touching the cold patio or wall.  Drape the plant and pot with frost cloth and/or or low-watt holiday lights all the way down to the ground, if possible. If you have a 2- or 3-inch depression in a pot, the cold air will settle inside that space and freeze the plant at the soil level.  Fill the pot with mulch and mound a cone around the trunk to keep the trunk from freezing.

In Ground – 

·  For Rain: No additional watering

·  For Cold: If the temperature is predicted to drop below 35°, drape your plumeria all the way down to the base of the plant with frost cloth or sheet (no plastic).  Or even better, string low-watt holiday lights (NOT LED) on your plumeria and drape with frost cloth or sheet around the trunk making sure to include the base of the plant to keep cold air away.  Remember to remove sheets/blankets following any cold event.

PESTS/DISEASES:

Red Solder Mites - Mites will remain on plants over the winter and will cause puckering of leaves in the spring. If you see damage, you already have a good population of them. Malathion is an effective control (follow instructions on the label).  Mites are hard to see with the naked eye.

Giant White Fly - White Flies are sap sucking insects and deposit eggs on leaves. Wash off leaves with a strong spray of water to dislodge the flies and eggs. You can then foliar spray with neem oil; some have found worm tea to be effective. Pick up leaves and dispose of them in a plastic bag that you can leave in the sun to sterilize. Note:  Ants often farm white flies, so keep a look out for ants.

Soft Brown Scale - Scale are small raised brown spots on the underside of leaves. You may also notice them on the tips and further down the trunk. The adults are protecting the young eggs which, when hatched, will spread fast. A sucking insect will cause the trunk to become crooked.  Malathion is a good control (follow instructions on label).

Rust - Common on Plumeria rubra ‘Red’, Plumeria obtusa ‘Dwarf Singapore’, and Plumeria pudica ‘Bridal Bouquet’. Caused by microscopic spores that travel and are carried by splashing rain or wind and thrive in humid conditions. Rust fungus does not kill Plumeria but can rapidly de-foliate an entire tree. To control rust, set up a care regimen:

·  Keep the growing area clean and free of fallen leaves.

·  Carefully remove and place infected leaves into a trash bag as the disease can spread.  Reminder: clean/sterilize cutting shears with 70% alcohol.  Do not compost!

·  Improve air circulation by thinning leaves and giving each tree plenty of space to grow.

·  Mild outbreaks can be controlled by fungicides (e.g. Captain Jack’s Copper Fungicide).

·  Treat affected plumeria (and surrounding soil during the dormant season) with a broad-spectrum fungicide, (e.g. BioAdvance 3 in 1).

LOOKING AHEAD:

First Feeding – Between February 14 - Valentine’s Day and March 17 - St. Patrick’s Day

[See soil preparations]

Planting – Coachella Valley enjoys a long planting and growing season, which means trimming and planting begin in late February,earlier than our neighboring colder climates along the Southern California coast.

LOCATION: Allow leaves and blossoms to fall off naturally. Do not cut or pull them off, which exposes the plant to infection. Stems are taking in the last bit of energy from their leaves preparing for winter rest.

Cuttings - To store cuttings that you want to plant in the Spring, remove any flowers or leaves on the cutting to allow the end to dry (callus) so no latex is flowing out. It is best to store them upright in a container of perlite or on crumpled paper. Keep it in a dark and dry place (garage, storage closet) off the cold concrete floor and away from extreme temperature drops and moisture. 

To plant cuttings, prepare a potting mix (50/50 cactus mix/perlite) in a pot or in well-dug ground.

In Pots - As the sun shifts (and if your plants are moveable), they may enjoy being moved into morning sun and afternoon shade. Fall is also good time to “plunge” potted plants in the ground (or even in larger pots) to help them retain their delicate root structure while providing a protected environment during dormancy and colder winter temperatures. Place the pot in a hole with the top of the potted soil level with the soil of the ground.

In Ground - No extra care is needed.

WATER: This is the time to begin cutting back on your watering.

Cuttings - Check on your cuttings periodically. By callusing or drying the stem of a cutting you are storing the vital latex (white, sticky life force) inside the stem. Mist your cuttings once or twice a month to keep them firm. If the cuttings become soft or winkled, they are dehydrated - mist them more often to hydrate. 

In Pots & Ground - Gradually cut back on watering to ensure that soil stays moist not wet. When cool weather sets in and the bottom leaves turn yellow and start to drop off, your plant is going into dormancy.  Water only when the soil is dry (check with a moisture meter or if soil falls off a finger inserted into the soil 1 to 2 inches deep.)

WEATHER: October to November begins to cool, from highs of 70s-90s and lows 40s-60s.  Water evaporation slows down as temperatures cool and exposure to sun diminishes. Drying winds in the desert can pick up, so keep measuring soil moisture.

Cuttings - If stored in your garage or under sheltered elements, they should be fine.  Check on them periodically.

In Pots & In Ground - Place your potted plants under a protected covered patio and out of the wind and off the cold concrete for Winter.

FERTILIZER + AMENDMENT: 

The last fertilizer for your plants in a pot or in the ground (i.e., rapid-release Excalibur Boost) is in early to mid-November. You can continue to fertilize your soil during this time (i.e., seaweed, worm tea, SuperThrive, fish emulsion or Epsom salts). If using tap water for worm tea application, let the water sit for 24 hours to let the chlorine dissipate, which can reduce the efficiency of the worm tea concentrate.  Or let the rainwater in a top dressing of VermisTerra Worm Castings into your soil. Fertilizing will begin again in the Spring (February-March).

PESTS + TREATMENTS:

Rust Fungus - Common on Plumeria rubra Nebel’s Rainbow, Plumeria obtusa Dwarf Singapore, and Plumeria pudica Bridal Bouquet. Caused by microscopic spores that travel and are carried by splashing rain or wind and thrive in humid conditions. Rust fungus does not kill Plumeria but can rapidly de-foliate an entire tree. To control rust, set up a care regimen:

•  Keep the growing area clean and free of fallen leaves.

•  Carefully cut off and place infected leaves into a trash bag as the disease can spread.  Reminder: clean/sterilize cutting shears with 70% alcohol.  Do not compost!

•  Improve air circulation by thinning leaves and giving each tree plenty of space to grow.

•  Mild outbreaks can be controlled with fungicides (i.e., Captain Jack’s Copper Fungicide).

•  Treat affected plumeria (and the ground surrounding the plant during the dormant season) with a broad-spectrum fungicide (i.e., BioAdvance 3 in 1).